Paul Gorman is…

Rarely seen images from the 1988 Malcolm McLaren exhibition Impresario with news that my MM bio will be published in April 2020

Apr 10th, 2019

//Window display for Impresario at the New Museum, Sept 16 – Nov 20, 1988. Image from the New Museum Digital Archive//

//Introduction to the show. Image from the New Museum Digital Archive//

My biography of the late Malcolm McLaren will now be published in April 2020, exactly 10 years after his premature death at the age of 64.

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Just as the independent labels and self-published fanzines Paul Gorman chronicles built their own alternative economies outside the mainstream music industry, today's digital subcultures are experimenting with decentralised currencies that move value without banks or borders. Part of that wave has reached the world of sports and casino entertainment, where crypto-friendly wagering has found a particularly enthusiastic audience in Turkey under the name bitcoin bahis —a form of play that lets users stake and cash out with digital coins rather than conventional payment rails. Anyone tempted to try it should treat it strictly as entertainment, stake only money they can afford to lose, and first confirm the platform's licensing as well as the gambling rules in force in their own country.

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The return of The Face: Some thoughts

Mar 30th, 2019

In my twin capacities as “biographer” of The Face and curator of last year’s British independent magazine exhibition PRINT!, I’ve been asked publicly and privately for my thoughts on the imminent online relaunch of the title (the plan is that the quarterly physical edition will follow in August, carrying a September dateline).

So here they are:

It’s interesting that the greatest anticipation for the magazine’s return is being generated for and by the fashion community. The PRs, writers, stylists and students who kept the flame alive after the publication’s 2004 demise are now busily banging the drum in response to the relaunch’s oddly one-note Instagram branding exercise, filling their feeds with excited content.

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Student 1969 + i-D 1991: How Anna Wintour and Edward Enninful started their journeys to the top

Feb 20th, 2019

 

Anna “Winter” modelled for her own fashion spread for the September 1969 issue of Student. Photography: Stephen Bobroff.
Edward Enninfuo contributed styling and casting to this streetwear shoot which appeared in i-D February 1991. Photography: Craig McDean. Story: Beth Summers.

Two decades apart, the editors of the American and British editions of Condé Nast’s Vogue began their respective careers with modest contributions to prominent independent youth culture publications of their day.

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The Bad Seed Collection Lives! A new t-shirt range inspired by this blog

Feb 12th, 2019

This blog has inspired the creation of yet another t-shirt series.

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If I Was Your Girlfriend: A Jam – companion newspaper about Prince’s life, work and legacy is a funky delight

Feb 10th, 2019

Arriving in a kinky sealed purple polythene envelope, If I Was Your Girlfriend: A Jam is the new publication which has been issued as a companion piece to last spring’s exhibition at London’s leading edge art space Belmacz.

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Shakin’ Stevens’ band The Sunsets sporting ultra-rare versions of Malcolm McLaren’s early 70s Chuck Berry design

Jan 29th, 2019

Back cover of the group’s 1973 LP released by Mint Records. No photo or design credit.
Front cover. No photo or design credit.

I’m grateful to Peter Stanfield, media and arts professor at the University of Kent, for alerting me to these great images of members of Shakin’ Stevens’ backing band The Sunsets sporting T-shirts designed by the late Malcolm McLaren for sale in his shop Let It Rock at 430 King’s Road in the early 70s.

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Robert Fraser’s Groovy Arts Club Band: I’ll be in conversation with Harriet Vyner + David Stephenson at Gazelli Art House on February 5

Jan 21st, 2019
Swingeing London, Richard Hamilton, 1968. Etching and aquatint with embossing, 54 x 74cm © Richard Hamilton. Courtesy Gazelli Art House.

On February 5 I’ll be taking part in a conversation about the significance of the late art dealer Robert Fraser at Gazelli Art House, the London gallery currently hosting Robert Fraser’s Groovy Arts Club Band, the exhibition of works by 13 of the cutting edge artists he represented between the 1960s and 1980s.

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What Men Wear (and why): Anecdotal, funny, revealing and surprisingly tender

Jan 20th, 2019

What Men Wear is the self-explanatory title of a slim volume from the Fantastic Man gang which punches well above its weight.

Containing questionnaires with 50 men on their favourite garments, the book also presents long-form interviews with three of the fashion world’s leading figures: Italian designer Stefano Pilati, British designer Charles Jeffrey and retailer Paul Smith.

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One of the rare Colin Bennett and Lloyd Johnson ‘Gasoline Alley’ jackets comes to light after nearly 50 years

Jan 12th, 2019

I’m indebted to reader Dave Shaw, who has sent me the photograph above left of himself wearing a very rare rock fashion garment: one of the canvas and leather jackets made famous by Rod Stewart, who sported his on the sleeve of 1970 solo album Gasoline Alley.

The cream jackets with heraldic-style brown trim were made by the maverick British tailor and leatherworker Colin Bennett and co-designed with Lloyd Johnson for sale in Kensington Market in the early 70s.

“When I bought it the guy told me it was the last of three; the others had gone to Rod Stewart and Allan Clarke of The Hollies,” says Shaw. In fact, as Johnson reveals in the comment below, Bennett made around 20 (and Stewart’s has survived in a collector’s archive).

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A sense of unease: John Alexander Skelton’s Collection VI

Jan 12th, 2019

British fashion designer John Alexander Skelton’s preview of his latest collection at the ancient Fleet Street watering hole Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese was a sensually overloaded and eerie delight.

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