When innovatory British men’s magazine Club International was launched in 1972, editor Tony Power and art director Steve Ridgeway assembled a diverse pool of contributors, including jazzer, art critic and cultural commentator George Melly, the Stately Homo Quentin Crisp, Rocky Horror Show founder Richard O’Brien, former White Panther Mick Farren, photographers David Parkinson, Mick Rock and Karl Stoecker, illustrators Bush Hollyhead and Brian Grimwood and the design studio Hipgnosis.

//Casual trousers £9.50 from Mr Freedom; satin waistcoat £12 from Chris at Hidegrade; Bobbysoxer Boots £12.75 by Daisy Roots from Way In. From Club International Vol 1 No 3, 1972//

//Prince of Wales Oxford bags £4.95 from Take 6; Hollywood Funsters £12.25 by Daisy Roots from Way In. From Club International Vol 1 No 3, 1972//

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Tags: A Nice Pair, Antiquarius, Aubrey "Po" POwell, Club International, Daisy Roots, Daniel hechter, George Melly, Hipgnosis, Karl Stoecker, Mick Rock, Mr Freedom, Peter Frampton, Pink Floyd, Quentin Crisp, Quincy, Somethin's Happening, Steve Ridgeway, Stian Brekke, Storm Thorgesen, Take 6, The Birdcage, The Village Gate, Tony Power, Way In

Tomorrow I’m a guest of historian Amber Butchart at London’s National Film Theatre for a conversation and q&a about Punk fashion with her special invitee Jordan Mooney, SEX and Seditionaries superstar and inner member of the Sex Pistols circle.

I’ve put together a presentation from my archive to run during our chat, including images of Jordan’s striking series of visual personae and slides showing how the designs by Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood at 430 King’s Road were regularly featured in the fashion and national press from the early 70s to the time of Punk later in the decade.

//Selection of Let It Rock designs showcased in a May 1972 issue of The Sunday Times Magazine. Photos: Hans Feurer. Paul Gorman Archive//

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Tags: 19, Alasdair McLellan, Amber Butchart, Caroline Baker, Hans Feurer, Honey & Vanity Fair, Jordan Mooney, Julien Temple, Karl Stoecker, Man About Town, Michael Roberts, National Film Theatre, Nova, Olivier Rizzo, Sex Pistols, Sunday Times Magazine, The Filth & The Fury

//Billy Murphy by Sean Moorman//

“There were many kings of the King’s Road at different periods of time but there was only one Emperor”

Lloyd Johnson

Very sad to note the passing of Billy Murphy, a thoroughly lovely bloke whose contribution to street fashion – particularly in Britain and specifically in and around the King’s Road – is sorely underrated.

I knew all about Billy’s significance in his field decades before I met him; as I wrote here, his shop The Emperor Of Wyoming was “an extremely important staging post not just in the story of British rock and roll fashion but also the development of the vintage scene in this country”.

//Stetson, embroidered shirt and hand-tooled leather belt from The Emperor Of Wyoming. Photo: David Parkinson for Club International, February 1974//

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Tags: Billy Murphy, Club International, Flip, Janet Street-Porter, Karl Stoecker, King's Road, Paradise Garage, Pru Walters, Sean Moorman, The Emperor Of Wyoming, Trevor myles, West One

//Front cover of booklet for the Linz show features this 1973 Karl Stoecker portrait of Brian Eno in Roxy Music stage costume designed by Carol McNicholl//

Glam! The Performance Of Style – the exhibition which locates early 70s glam rock in the context of fine art and the interplay between “high” and mass culture – is opening at the Lentos Kunstmuseum in Linz, Austria later this month.

I was a consultant to Glam!’s curator Darren Pih of Tate Liverpool, where the show opened at the beginning of this year before moving on to Frankfurt’s Schirn Kunsthalle for the summer.

//The Let It Rock guitar mirror as exhibited at Glam! in Frankfurt. Photo: Andrei Luca//

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Tags: (No Pussyfooting), Andrei Luca, Brian Eno, Carol McNicholl, Club International, Darren Pih, Frankfurt, Glam! The Performance Of Style, Kansai Yamamoto, Karl Stoecker, Lentos Kunstmuseum, Linz, Paradise Garage, Robert Fripp, Schirn Kunsthalle, Tate Liverpool, Trevor myles

//Clockwise from top left: Sissy Spacek and Martin Sheen, Badlands, 1973; Arnella Goes Rodeo, West One, 1974; Malcolm McLaren, January 1972; clothes from The Emperor Of Wyoming, 1973//

A fashion shoot styled by Pru Walters and photographed by Karl Stoecker for a 1974 issue of Janet Street-Porter’s secretarial magazine West One foregrounds the importance of Westernwear to London street style in the early to mid-70s.

//West One, May 14, 1974, p14: Fringed blouse from Kweens, 109 King's Road; shorts Stirling Cooper; boots + hat The Emperor of Wyoming, 404 King's Road//

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Tags: Anello & Davide, Badlands, Billy Murphy, Caril Fugate, Charles Starkweather, Janet Street-Porter, John Michael Ingram, Johnny Kidd, Karl Stoecker, Kweens, Marco Pirroni, Martin Sheen, Pru Walters, Sissy Spacek, Terrence Malick, The Emperor Of Wyoming, The Westerner, West One

Tucked away at the back of an issue of British soft-porn magazine Club International was a fashion shoot featuring clothing elements which denoted the crystallisation of the new art-directed glam aesthetic inaugurated by the release of Roxy Music’s first album a couple of months previously.

The photographer was Karl Stoecker, the New Yorker who had been resident in the UK since the mid-60s and was coming into his own with important contributions to Roxy’s visual identity across that LP and its successors For Your Pleasure and Stranded.

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Tags: Antony Price, Che Guevara, Club International, For Your Pleasure, Gwenda Saar, Karl Stoecker, Manolo Bahnik, Mick Jagger, Norman B, Quincy, Roxy Music, STanley Adams, Stranded, The Squire Shop, Them, Village Gate, Zapata