Paul Gorman is…

The return of The Face: Some thoughts

Mar 30th, 2019

In my twin capacities as “biographer” of The Face and curator of last year’s British independent magazine exhibition PRINT!, I’ve been asked publicly and privately for my thoughts on the imminent online relaunch of the title (the plan is that the quarterly physical edition will follow in August, carrying a September dateline).

So here they are:

It’s interesting that the greatest anticipation for the magazine’s return is being generated for and by the fashion community. The PRs, writers, stylists and students who kept the flame alive after the publication’s 2004 demise are now busily banging the drum in response to the relaunch’s oddly one-note Instagram branding exercise, filling their feeds with excited content.

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Just as the independent labels and self-published fanzines Paul Gorman chronicles built their own alternative economies outside the mainstream music industry, today's digital subcultures are experimenting with decentralised currencies that move value without banks or borders. Part of that wave has reached the world of sports and casino entertainment, where crypto-friendly wagering has found a particularly enthusiastic audience in Turkey under the name bitcoin bahis —a form of play that lets users stake and cash out with digital coins rather than conventional payment rails. Anyone tempted to try it should treat it strictly as entertainment, stake only money they can afford to lose, and first confirm the platform's licensing as well as the gambling rules in force in their own country.

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Student 1969 + i-D 1991: How Anna Wintour and Edward Enninful started their journeys to the top

Feb 20th, 2019

 

Anna “Winter” modelled for her own fashion spread for the September 1969 issue of Student. Photography: Stephen Bobroff.
Edward Enninfuo contributed styling and casting to this streetwear shoot which appeared in i-D February 1991. Photography: Craig McDean. Story: Beth Summers.

Two decades apart, the editors of the American and British editions of Condé Nast’s Vogue began their respective careers with modest contributions to prominent independent youth culture publications of their day.

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The Bad Seed Collection Lives! A new t-shirt range inspired by this blog

Feb 12th, 2019

This blog has inspired the creation of yet another t-shirt series.

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If I Was Your Girlfriend: A Jam – companion newspaper about Prince’s life, work and legacy is a funky delight

Feb 10th, 2019

Arriving in a kinky sealed purple polythene envelope, If I Was Your Girlfriend: A Jam is the new publication which has been issued as a companion piece to last spring’s exhibition at London’s leading edge art space Belmacz.

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Shakin’ Stevens’ band The Sunsets sporting ultra-rare versions of Malcolm McLaren’s early 70s Chuck Berry design

Jan 29th, 2019

Back cover of the group’s 1973 LP released by Mint Records. No photo or design credit.
Front cover. No photo or design credit.

I’m grateful to Peter Stanfield, media and arts professor at the University of Kent, for alerting me to these great images of members of Shakin’ Stevens’ backing band The Sunsets sporting T-shirts designed by the late Malcolm McLaren for sale in his shop Let It Rock at 430 King’s Road in the early 70s.

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Robert Fraser’s Groovy Arts Club Band: I’ll be in conversation with Harriet Vyner + David Stephenson at Gazelli Art House on February 5

Jan 21st, 2019
Swingeing London, Richard Hamilton, 1968. Etching and aquatint with embossing, 54 x 74cm © Richard Hamilton. Courtesy Gazelli Art House.

On February 5 I’ll be taking part in a conversation about the significance of the late art dealer Robert Fraser at Gazelli Art House, the London gallery currently hosting Robert Fraser’s Groovy Arts Club Band, the exhibition of works by 13 of the cutting edge artists he represented between the 1960s and 1980s.

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What Men Wear (and why): Anecdotal, funny, revealing and surprisingly tender

Jan 20th, 2019

What Men Wear is the self-explanatory title of a slim volume from the Fantastic Man gang which punches well above its weight.

Containing questionnaires with 50 men on their favourite garments, the book also presents long-form interviews with three of the fashion world’s leading figures: Italian designer Stefano Pilati, British designer Charles Jeffrey and retailer Paul Smith.

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One of the rare Colin Bennett and Lloyd Johnson ‘Gasoline Alley’ jackets comes to light after nearly 50 years

Jan 12th, 2019

I’m indebted to reader Dave Shaw, who has sent me the photograph above left of himself wearing a very rare rock fashion garment: one of the canvas and leather jackets made famous by Rod Stewart, who sported his on the sleeve of 1970 solo album Gasoline Alley.

The cream jackets with heraldic-style brown trim were made by the maverick British tailor and leatherworker Colin Bennett and co-designed with Lloyd Johnson for sale in Kensington Market in the early 70s.

“When I bought it the guy told me it was the last of three; the others had gone to Rod Stewart and Allan Clarke of The Hollies,” says Shaw. In fact, as Johnson reveals in the comment below, Bennett made around 20 (and Stewart’s has survived in a collector’s archive).

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A sense of unease: John Alexander Skelton’s Collection VI

Jan 12th, 2019

British fashion designer John Alexander Skelton’s preview of his latest collection at the ancient Fleet Street watering hole Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese was a sensually overloaded and eerie delight.

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Tribute to Ola Hudson: The Woman Who Fell To Earth

Dec 17th, 2018
Ola Hudson in the 1970s. Photo: Ola Hudson Archive, courtesy Ash Hudson. No reproduction without permission.
Fashion sketch and negatives. Ola Hudson Archive, courtesy Ash Hudson. No reproduction without permission.
Bowie in Ola Hudson suit on the set of The Man Who Fell To Earth, New Mexico. Photo: StudioCanal.

I’m extremely grateful to artist/designer/photographer Ash Hudson for sending precious photographs and design sketches from the archive of his late mother Ola Hudson, the super-talented fashion designer and costumier best known for providing David Bowie with the formal yet other-worldly collection of garments he wore in Nicolas Roeg’s 1976 film The Man Who Fell To Earth and as The Thin White Duke on the subsequent Isolar world tour.

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