Of ties and men: The neckwear connection between Bryan Ferry, Malcolm McLaren and David Parkinson
//Malcolm McLaren, 1973. Photo: David Parkinson. Bryan Ferry, 1976. Photo Richard Wallis//
A couple of years back I showed examples of photography by the late David Parkinson to car-nut graphic design maestro Jules Balme; I knew he would be interested in the incorporation of a 1959 Cadillac Eldorado in a 1973 Let It Rock fashion shoot.
What drew Balme’s eagle eye was not the car fin detail, but the fact that Malcolm McLaren in the shot below sported a tie of the same distinctive Atomic-style 50s pattern as worn by Bryan Ferry in the video clip for his 1976 solo hit Let’s Stick Together (and subsequently on the sleeve of the compilation of the same name rushed out to capitalise on the single’s success that year).
//McLaren and models in Let It Rock attire – right are examples of the so-called “Alan Ladd” and “Jazz” suits – photographed in Acre Lane, Brixton for Club International by David Parkinson, summer 1973//
//Front cover, “Let’s Stick Together”, Bryan Ferry, EG/Polydor, 1976//
David Parkinson – who died in 1975 – was not only a remarkable photographer but also a pioneering collector of pop culture artefacts and what have been described by his friend Steph Raynor as “icon pieces” – classic examples of vintage clothing. He amassed a substantial collection of painted and flamboyant ties from the 30s to the 60s, and often featured them in his fashion spreads for such publications as soft-porn magazine Club International.
//Page proof for title page of vintage tie feature, Club International, March 1974. Neckwear from Acme Attractions, The Golden Age and Rochelle in The Common Market. Photo: David Parkinson//
//Parkinson preparing a stall to sell pop culture artefacts and his tie collection, Petticoat Lane market, east London, 1975//
It is ironic that a photograph of Let It Rock and Sex customer Bryan Ferry wearing a vintage tie prompted Parkinson to attempt to sell the dozens in his possession at the flea market in Petticoat Lane not long before his death. Such was the singularity of his collecting zeal that Parkinson was prepared to go to these lengths to avoid being identified with populism.
Here’s the promo for Let’s Stick Together; Ferry’s suit is by his long-time collaborator Antony Price as is drummer Paul Thompson’s cap sleeved t-shirt. Guitarist Chris Spedding is wearing leathers and boots from Sex.
Read my GQ piece about David Parkinson’s importance in the development of street fashion in this country here.