A code for kicking against the pricks: THEM (Slight Return) with Peter York interview in Arena Homme +

//Opening spread of my interview with Peter York, Arena Homme + Winter/Spring 2020. Portrait: David Sims//
//From the Them fashion story. Photography: Julien Martinez Leclerc; fashion: Tom Guinness//

The jury is out on this autumn’s relaunch of the print edition of venerated British style magazine The Face; as I suggested here it’s going to take more than one splashy issue to assess whether the proposition has legs as we enter the 2020s (next May will mark the 40th anniversary of the founding of The Face by Nick Logan).

Continue reading A code for kicking against the pricks: THEM (Slight Return) with Peter York interview in Arena Homme +

A matter of scale: New exhibition casts an intriguing and intimate light on Robyn Denny’s working practices

//Maquette for Great Big Biggest Wide London, 1958. 5.6 x 61cm//
//Robyn Denny, 1961. Photo: Bernard Jacobson Gallery//

The late British abstract artist Robyn Denny is best known for his large-scale works, such as Great Big Biggest Wide London, the giant 1959 mural for menswear company Austin Reed’s Regent Street store.

Continue reading A matter of scale: New exhibition casts an intriguing and intimate light on Robyn Denny’s working practices

Experimental + inspirational: Wild Daughter

//Wild Daughter at the ICA last month. The gold phalus worn by James Jeanetta was
//Wild Daughter at the ICA last month. The gold phallus worn by James Jeanette was created by leathermakers Whitaker Malem//
//Still from Wild Daughter’s Mr G, directed by Douglas Hart and styled by Elie Grace Cumming//

I was flattered recently to receive an email from Jacob Shaw, bassist in art-rockers Wild Daughter, about the effect my work has had on certain visual elements of the group and in particular a performance during their recent ICA night The Moon Sextiles The Sun.

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Romantic revolt to change our lives: George Cox catwalk show and in-conversation celebrating 70 years of creepin’ at Port Eliot next week

// In George Cox creepers: Malcolm McLaren, 430 King’s Road, January 1972. Photo: David Parkinson / Slowthai, Northampton, 2018. Photo: Ewen Spencer for Arena Homme + //

“Those blue suede shoes had a magical association that seemed authentic. They represented an age of desperate romantic revolt to change your life.”

Malcolm McLaren, notes on his life in fashion, 1997

I’m celebrating the 70th anniversary of the introduction of George Cox & Co’s first creeper at the Port Eliot Festival next week with Adam Waterfield, the fourth generation owner of the great independent British brand, and his son Alistair, a Central Saint Martins student and model who is very much involved in the family business.

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Fashion: An Anthology – the brilliance of Cecil Beaton x Vern Lambert at the V&A in 1971

//Cover, Fashion: An Anthology catalogue, V&A, 1971//
//Frontispiece: a Beaton photograph of a model wearing a 1961 Balenciaga dress//
//Vern Lambert in Milan in the 80s. Photo: Alfa Castaldi//

My recent Rocketman post gave me cause to dig out my copy of the catalogue produced for the groundbreaking exhibition Fashion: An Anthology, staged by London’s V&A from October 1971 to January 1972.

Continue reading Fashion: An Anthology – the brilliance of Cecil Beaton x Vern Lambert at the V&A in 1971

Rocketman: Mr Freedom, Tommy Roberts and Jim O’Connor’s winged boots


//Above Taron Egerton as Elton John and Jamie Bell as Bernie Taupin meet “Tommy Roberts” in Rocketman. Stills from Kii Arens promo video for Egerton and John’s new single (I’m Gonna) Love Me Again//

//The pair of Mr Freedom winged boots acquired by Cecil Beaton for the V&A 1971 exhibition: Fashion: An Anthology//

During the production of Elton John biopic Rocketman there were plans for a scene set in London’s groundbreaking pop-art boutique Mr Freedom in the early 70s.

This was to set up the central character’s visual transformation during visits to the store under the influence of its charismatic founder and frontman, the late, lamented Tommy Roberts.

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‘Cheap bottle red wine (£1.20p)’: Life on the margins in Marble Arch in 1978 with Pat Booth, Roddy Llewellyn and Joe Strummer

//Shopping list/instructions written for me by my employer in 1978. Advance was the dry cleaners in Edgware Road. I’m not now sure about Stanton Freres; was it the local off-licence?//

I left school and home when I was 17 and, on the dole in 1978, supplemented my income working for a woman in her late 30s whose sugar daddy had put her up in a flat in a mansion block off Edgware Road. He rarely visited, and in fact died while I was in her employ. The family forbade her from attending the funeral and I realise now her tenancy was likely quite shaky.

Continue reading ‘Cheap bottle red wine (£1.20p)’: Life on the margins in Marble Arch in 1978 with Pat Booth, Roddy Llewellyn and Joe Strummer

My essay on the Malcolm For Mayor campaign in DB Burkeman’s Stickers Vol 2: More Stuck-Up Crap

//My essay on Malcolm For Mayor with stickers by Scott King and Matthew Worley//

“The sticker may be the most efficient art form ever invented”

Jeffrey Deitch, 2019

I have an essay in DB Burkeman’s just-published follow-up to his 2010 survey of the use of audacious and eye-catching stickers in art, design, fashion, music and social activism.

Continue reading My essay on the Malcolm For Mayor campaign in DB Burkeman’s Stickers Vol 2: More Stuck-Up Crap

Recent journalism: Baggies with attitude for MacGuffin + the colour black in street style for Fred Perry Quarterly

//MacGuffin No 7, spring 2019//
//Fred Perry Quarterly Issue 2, Spring 2019//

Here’s a couple of pieces of recently published journalism, one filed for the Netherlands-based biannual MacGuffin, the other for the second issue of Fred Perry Quarterly.

Continue reading Recent journalism: Baggies with attitude for MacGuffin + the colour black in street style for Fred Perry Quarterly

Pungent + prolific with a million miles on the meter: Sayonara Mary Cigarettes

“I want to die with a million miles on my meter,

I want to die with well-used and worn tyres”

In The Land Of The Harley Davidson, Mary Cigarettes, 2011

It’s been a month or so since the death of the extraordinary singer-songwriter Mary Cigarettes; today I’m marking his passing with this selection from his Youtube channel.

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